We drive past Kirkham Abbey in North Yorkshire on a regular basis, but we have never visited until now. Officially known as Kirkham Priory — one of the lesser-known abbeys of Yorkshire — it sits on the banks of the River Derwent. It has a fascinating history, from its time as an Augustinian monastery to its secret role in military training before the D-Day landings. (If you’ve ever wondered about the difference between a priory and an abbey, there’s a note on that below.)
Priory or Abbey — What’s the Difference?
You’ll see Kirkham referred to as both Kirkham Priory and Kirkham Abbey, which can be confusing. The two terms describe similar but slightly different things.
An abbey is headed by an abbot or abbess and is typically a larger, more self-sufficient community. A priory is headed by a prior or prioress and was historically considered a secondary or dependent house — though many priories were substantial establishments in their own right.
Kirkham was always a priory in the strict sense, run by Augustinian Canons under a prior. “Kirkham Abbey” is the name English Heritage now uses for the site, largely because it’s become the more commonly recognised term locally. Both names refer to the same place.
History of Kirkham Priory
Kirkham Priory was established around 1122 by Walter Espec, who also founded Rievaulx Abbey. Augustinian Cannons (ordained priests who lived in a community) lived, worked, and prayed here for centuries. They wore blank robes, ate a primarily vegetarian diet, dined communally and slept in a common dorm room.
Between 1135 and 1140, there was an attempt to transform the priory into a Cistercian monastery, but it remained an Augustinian monastery. Walter l’Espec died in 1155, leaving his northern estates—and his role as patron of Kirkham Priory—to the powerful de Roos family. In the early 1200s, the east end of the priory church was rebuilt. Throughout the 13th and 14th centuries, the de Roos family chose Kirkham as their final resting place, with their tombs placed in prominent positions before the altars.
Around 1300, Kirkham Priory’s impressive gatehouse was built, with intricate carvings of the coats of arms of the de Roos family and other powerful northern nobles.
Kirkham’s inevitable end came in 1539. On 8 December, the prior and 17 canons signed the deed surrendering their monastery to the king. They left with pensions ranging from £50 a year for the prior to £2 for the novices. Many settled in the local area and remained in close contact, with some even requesting burial within their former church.
King Henry’s commissioners stripped everything of value from the priory. The Crown sold the site in 1540 to the courtier Henry Knevett. Building stone was purportedly removed for the construction of a local manor house. An early 18th-century engraving of the priory reveals that it was already in a state of severe ruin.
Kirkham Priory played a secret role in the Second World War. British soldiers used its quiet grounds to test new military equipment before D-Day. Leaders like Prime Minister Winston Churchill and King George VI visited Kirkham Abbey for military demonstrations.
Even Princess Elizabeth (Queen Elizabeth II) saw tests here as part of her first official engagement. Many English Heritage sites have hidden stories, but this one feels extra special for history enthusiasts. The river by the ruins made it easy to practice using amphibious tanks and other gear needed for crossing water on D-Day.
Kirkham Priory Today
As you walk around the grounds of Kirkham Priory, you can see that it had a sizeable lower ground floor used as wine cellars and store rooms. You’ll see ruined stone walls, foundations and worn steps leading to what was once a traditional estate courtyard. You can see what would have been the priory’s central accommodation. The ancient stone walls and arches look beautiful against the banks of the River Derwent. You can even see the remains of the drains and sewer systems.
The carved gatehouse covered with detailed stonework is still there, and there are plenty of spots for resting, benches and views of the river. You can walk down the riverbank, as well.
There are walking trails for those who want more than a wander around the ruins. The main Kirkham abbey walk is a 7.4km circular route starting at the priory beside the River Derwent — it takes in the surrounding countryside and is an easy, well-marked route suitable for most abilities.
Visitor Information
Visiting Kirkham Abbey is free, and the abbey is open during daylight hours. There’s free parking outside the priory, but it can get full quickly.
There were no facilities when we visited – it seems the site used to be manned with a visitor centre, which had toilet, but this is now closed as entry is free.
Our Visit
We loved visiting the ruins of this Augustinian priory. It’s much bigger than we were expecting, and my little boy loved exploring the old ruins. It’s an excellent place for a free day out in North Yorkshire. Afterwards, we had a meal at The Stone Trough Inn – a pub just up the road. The Kirkham estate is was for sale last year, which includes a six-bedroom farmhouse, loads of land, rentals and the Abbey. It sold for £25 million in 2025.
Oh wow – firstly, I love your outfit. Secondly, this really is my dream family day out: fresh air, history and lots of exploring!
Rosie